Del Sol Construction Blog

Atlanta Build, Remodel and Landscape Expo

Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:26:00 GMT

January 29-31, 2010 at the Atlanta Exposition Center

The Build, Remodel and Landscape Expo is held at the Atlanta Exposition Center, just off HWY 285, making it easily accessible to the Atlanta metro area. Hosted the past 11 years at the Atlanta Exposition Center, the show has built a reputation as the place for Atlanta and surrounding community homeowners to meet expert remodelers face to face all under one roof.

At the show, you will be introduced to the latest innovations and offerings in the home building and remodeling industry. The show features top quality displays and knowledgeable experts offering everything for the home. It will be your time to ask questions and get expert advice. Exhibits include, but are not limited to the specializations of home building, kitchen and bath remodeling, basements, sunrooms, additions, windows, siding roofing as well as landscape installations.

The Build, Remodel and Landscape Expo is your opportunity to get the valuable information needed to execute your design and remodel projects. You will be able to learn from experienced professionals and find the latest product information. Whether your interests concern heating and air conditioning systems, decking, water treatment systems, interior decorating, home security systems or just the best way to install a towel bar, you will find the advice and products you need. We look forward to seeing you this January at the Atlanta Exposition Center, the place to be for all your home building and remodeling needs.

Home Show Location

Atlanta Exposition Center
North Building
3650 Jonesboro Road SE, Atlanta, GA 30354

Home Show Hours

Friday 2:00 PM to 8:00 PM
Saturday 10:00 AM to 8:00 PM
Sunday 11:00 AM to 6:00 PM

Home Show Cost

Adults $5.00
Children Under 18 FREE

Is It Time for a New Roof?

Fri, 21 Aug 2009 20:49:00 GMT

When water spots start forming on your ceiling, or you notice those tale tale drips of water running down the walls - it's pretty obvious that you have a roof leak. But... how do you know there aren't undetected leaks - the ones that go unnoticed for days...weeks and in even some cases, months before they make themselves known with those visible signs.

You hear a lot of home improvement shows talk about the envelope of the house. This is the protective barrier of roof, siding, gutters, foundation drains that keep your house conditioned safe and dry. When the house envelope becomes compromised, almost always the first invader is going to be water.

Water entering the home from any location can damage the drywall, the structural members, your home's insulation, not to mention the flooring and carpet, your furnishings and personal possessions, and anything else that it comes in contact with.

A roof can leak for a number of reasons, but the most common is improper installation of the roof. Over half of all roof leaks in typical residences are the result of improper flashing around roof vents and in the valley where the roof lines meet. Storms are the second-leading cause of leaks, since strong winds can rip shingles from the roof and force water underneath some types of shingles. Debris and branches torn off nearby trees during a storm can also damage a good roof to the point where water seepage is possible.

There are many things that can go wrong with the roofing system, including, shingles that curl, shingles that get blown off or flashing can be damaged or bent. All of these will eventually lead to a serious problem and that is a roof leak. You may not see the damage coming. Water may be seeping in, but you won’t see it in the house until water is coming into the interior of the home. At that point a lot of damage may have already occurred. In some cases, the first visual hint of a problem will be the appearance of mold.

It is fairly easy for the average homeowner to do a visual inspection of your roof. First and foremost, know how long you have had your roof. Here in the Hot Humid South, roofing materials undergo a higher level of heat and sun damage than in a lot of other areas of the country. If you know you last had the roof replaced when Nixon was president, its a safe bet that your roof needs replacing. Check your roof for cracked or missing shingles, bent or damaged flashing, cracked or damaged vent boots around roof penetrations like bathroom vents. You will also want to check your gutters to make sure that they are clear of any debris and are not damaged. If you have a steep roof or you feel uncomfortable climbing on your roof, you may need to give us a call and let us do the inspection for you.

If it appears you may have a problem, it's time to call in a professional - Del Sol Construction. In some cases, the repairs can be completed relatively inexpensive. however, If you have an older roof, replacement may be required. Bear in mind, repairing an older roof is usually just a "bandage solution" on a worsening problem and can lead to further interior or structural damage, becoming more costly to not only replace the roof, but repair the resulting damages.

Give us a call today!

Georgia Power Refrigerator/Freezer Recycling Program

Fri, 24 Jul 2009 20:00:00 GMT

Georgia Power Refrigerator/Freezer Recycling Program If you are a Georgia Power customer and have a working secondary refrigerator you want to recycle, take advantage of Georgia Power’s Refrigerator Recycling Program. They will pick up and recycle your second refrigerator or freezer for free and give you $35.

Here’s how it works: If you live in metro Atlanta, within the approved pilot program area, and have a second refrigerator or freezer in your garage, basement, storage space or elsewhere in your home, we’ll come pick it up for free.* You’ll get $35 cash back and we’ll recycle it in an environmentally proper way. The refrigerator or freezer must be empty and working at the time of pickup.

Call 1-866-446-9250 or click in the box below to find out if your zip code qualifies for this service and schedule your free refrigerator pickup.

*JACO Environmental, an appliance recycler, will pick up and recycle refrigerators and freezers that are empty, plugged in and working. This program is available to Georgia Power customers, in approved zip codes within the metro Atlanta area, on a first-come, first-served basis. Refrigerators and freezers must be 10-30 cubic feet in size and collection crews will need clear access to the unit. Customers must own the unit(s) being recycled. Limit two units per residential address per year. A check will be issued to the Georgia Power customer and will be mailed approximately 4-6 weeks after the appliance pickup. Contractor reserves the right to leave the appliance if removal may cause damage to the property or is otherwise impractical.

Did you know?
Georgia Power households have approximately 235,000 secondary refrigerators more than 10 years old in their garages, basements, storage spaces or elsewhere in their homes. If every Georgia Power household recycled that second refrigerator, the annual energy savings would be as much as 250 million kWh/year. Many of these secondary refrigerators are not ENERGY STAR^® qualified and typically use 75 percent more energy than newer ENERGY STAR models.

By removing and recycling your old fridge, you can:

Save Money
By recycling your old working fridge or freezer, you'll see up to $100 a year in energy savings, or as much as $1,000 in energy over its remaining life. These numbers are based on manufacturing date prior to 1993.

Save Natural Resources
The average refrigerator 10 years old or older contains about 159 pounds of steel, 75 pounds of plastic and 10 pounds of glass. Recycling ensures proper disposal of these materials and reduces demand in landfill space. For every ton of steel that is properly recycled - roughly the amount in 16 full-size refrigerators - we save 2,500 pounds of iron ore, 1,400 pounds of coal and 120 pounds of limestone in natural resources.

Good Tricks For Saving Money On Home Improvement Projects

Fri, 21 Aug 2009 20:58:00 GMT

by J Millner

If you really want to save money on your house improvement projects, then you need to seriously consider shopping for most of your home improvement materials on the internet instead of just visiting brick and mortar home improvement stores. Whether you’re just planting a new lawn this year or you’re looking to remodel your bathroom, there are probably some things you can buy on the web for less money than you’d expect. You can get a greater selection of products and save a ton of money at the same time.

I now buy all sorts of home improvement supplies, tools and even books online. I’ve learned that I can buy more home improvement supplies with less cash if I just spend a little time to do so. I have learned some tricks for buying home improvement products over the internet:

Watch the shipping and handling charges: You have to be careful with home improvement items and shipping because many items that you buy for your home are heavier than your average DVD purchase. Even if the purchasing cost is lower at a website the shipping on certain items may make things more expensive than buying them from a local hardware store.

Shop for the best price: No matter what you’re looking to buy for your house there are sure to be many different stores that are offering it. Take your time and shop at a few different web sites to make sure you’re getting the best offer you can find. Be sure to check measurements before ordering and make sure the store you buy from has a reasonable return policy.

Shop home town and online stores together: Some stores offer price matching programs which you can use to have different stores compete for your business! Try shopping for the same or similar items at online stores and taking those prices into your local hardware store. You may find some home improvement materials that are less expensive online and some that are better bought locally.

With a little patience and persistence you can save a lot of money on all the materials and supplies you need to complete your own DIY home upgrade projects. Buying on the internet may not be a great solution for some things like lumber supplies but it could save you a lot of money and time when it comes to other things like power tools and construction plans.

27 Tips for a Functional Bathroom

Thu, 23 Apr 2009 19:09:00 GMT

The following NKBA guidelines offer ideas for keeping your bathroom as functional as possible. Most NKBA guidelines are suggestions; however, a few guidelines are also residential codes. The guidelines that are also code say “code” next to them. Visit the NKBA’s Web site for their entire list of kitchen and bath guidelines.

1. Door Entry:

The clear opening of a doorway should be 32-inches wide.

2. Door Interference:

No entry or fixture doors should interfere with one another and/or the safe use of fixtures or cabinets.

3. Ceiling Height:

The height of a bathroom ceiling will be a minimum of 80 inches from the floor. Also, a shower or tub equipped with a showerhead should have minimum floor-to-ceiling height of 80 inches (above a minimum area 30-inches by 30-inches at the showerhead).

4. Clear Space (floor space):

Plan a clear floor space at least 30 inches from the front edge of all fixtures (such as the lavatory, toilet, tub and shower) to any opposite bath fixture, wall or obstacle.

5. Single Lavatory Placement:

The distance from the center of the lavatory (sink) to the sidewall or any other tall obstacle should be at least 20 inches.

6. Double Lavatory Placement:

The distance between the centers of the two lavatories (sinks) should be at least 36 inches.

7. Lavatory/Vanity Height:

The height for a lavatory varies between 32 and 43 inches in order to fit the user.

8. Counter:

Use countertops with clipped or round corners rather than sharp-edged corners.

9. Shower Size:

The interior shower size is at least 36-inches by 36-inches.

10. Tub and Shower Controls:

a. The shower controls should be accessible from both inside and outside the shower spray and be located between 38 to 48 inches above the floor.
b. The tub controls should be accessible from both inside and outside the tub and be located above the rim of the bathtub and 33 inches above the floor.

11. Shower/Tub Control Valves:

Shower and tub/shower control valves must be one of the following:
• Pressure balanced
• Thermostatic mixing
• Combination pressure balance/thermostatic mixing valve types

12. Shower/Tub Seat:

Plan a seat within the shower that is 17 to 19 inches above the shower floor and 15 inches deep.

13. Tub/Shower Surround:

The wall area above a tub or shower pan should be covered in a waterproof material extending at least 3 inches above the showerhead rough in.

14. Grab Bars:

Grab bars should facilitate access to the tub and shower areas, and should aid in maneuvering in those areas.
Tub and shower walls should be prepared (reinforced) at time of construction to allow for installation of grab bars to support a static load of 250 pounds.

Grab bars should be placed at least 33 to 36 inches above the floor.

Grab bars must be 1¼ to 2 inches in diameter and extend 1½ inches from the wall.

15. Glazing (windows or doors):

Glass used in tub or shower enclosures or partitions must be tempered (or an approved equal of tempered glass) and must be permanently marked as such. (code)

If the tub or shower surround has glass windows or walls, the glazing must be tempered glass or approved equal when the bottom edge of glazing is less than 60 inches above any standard or walking surface. (code)

Any glazing (i.e. windows or doors) whose bottom edge is less than 18 inches above the floor must be tempered glass or approved equal. (code)

16. Tub/Shower Door:

Hinged shower doors shall open outward. (code)

17. Steps (outside a tub):

Steps should not be placed outside a tub. If steps are used a grab bar/handrail is mandatory.

18. Flooring:

Slip-resistant surfaces should be specified for the general bath flooring, shower floors and tub/shower bottoms.

19. Equipment Access:

All equipment, including access panels, must be installed as per manufacturers’ specifications. (code)

All manufacturers’ instructions must be available for installers and inspectors and left for homeowners. (code)

20. Toilet and/or Bidet Placement:

The distance from the center of the of the toilet and/or bidet to any bath fixture, wall or other obstacle should be at least 18 inches.

21. Toilet Compartment:

The size for a separate toilet compartment should be at least 33-inches by 66-inches with a swing-out or pocket door.

22. Storage:

Provide adequate, accessible storage for toiletries, bath linens, grooming and general bathroom supplies at point of use.

23. Accessories:

a. Place a mirror above or near the lavatory at a height that takes the user’s eye height into consideration.

b. The toilet paper holder should be located 8 to 12 inches in front of the edge of the toilet bowl, centered at 26 inches above the floor.

c. Additional accessories, such as towel holders, soap dishes, etc., should be conveniently located near all bath fixtures.

24. Electrical Receptacles:

All GFCI receptacles should be located at electrical appliance points of use.

25. Lighting:

In addition to general lighting, task lighting should be provided for each functional area in the bathroom (i.e. grooming, showering).

26. Ventilation:

Plan a mechanical exhaust system, vented to the outside, for each enclosed area.

27. Heat:

A supplemental heat source such as a heat lamp, toe kick heater or floor heat should be considered.

Plan Your Project Today

31 Tips for a Great Kitchen

Thu, 23 Apr 2009 19:07:00 GMT

No one wants a brand-new kitchen with appliance doors that bump into cabinet doors, or an island so close to the wall that it can’t be used for dining. Good space planning will help you develop the best layout for your kitchen, so take the time to read this condensed version of the NKBA guidelines. (The full guidelines are available on the NKBA site.)

Designed to maximize safety and functionality in home kitchens, the guidelines represent ideal layout solutions to kitchen concerns from storage space to door clearance. Don’t forget if budget limitations and the constraints of an existing kitchen require some compromises and tradeoffs: The only rules you must follow are building codes.

1. Door/Entry:

A doorway should be at least 32 inches wide.

2. Door Interference:

No entry door should interfere with appliances, nor should appliance doors interfere with one another.

3. Distance between Work Centers:

In a kitchen with three work centers*, the sum of the distances between them should total no more than 26 feet. No leg of the work triangle should measure less than 4 feet nor more than 9 feet. When the kitchen includes additional work centers, each additional distance should measure no less than 4 feet nor more than 9 feet. No work triangle leg should intersect an island or peninsula by more than 12 inches.

* The distances between the three primary work centers (cooking, cleanup/prep and refrigeration) form a work triangle.

4. Separating Work Centers:

A full-height, full-depth, tall obstacle [i.e. a pantry cabinet or refrigerator] should not separate two primary work centers.

5. Work Triangle Traffic:

No major traffic patterns should cross through the work triangle.

6. Work Aisle:

The width of a work aisle should be at least 42 inches for one cook and at least 48 inches for multiple cooks.

7. Walkway:

The width of a walkway should be at least 36 inches.

8.Traffic Clearance at Seating:

In a seating area where no traffic passes behind a seated diner, allow 32 inches of clearance from the counter/table edge to any wall or other obstruction behind the seating area. If traffic passes behind the seated diner, allow at least 36 inches to edge past or at least 44 inches to walk past.

9. Seating Clearance:

Kitchen seating areas should incorporate at least the following clearances: At 30-inch-high tables/counters, allow a 24-inch-wide by 18-inch-deep knee space for each seated diner. At 36-inch-high counters, allow a 24-inch-wide by 15-inch-deep knee space. At 42-inch-high counters, allow a 24-inch-wide by 12-inch-deep knee space.

10. Cleanup/Prep Sink Placement:

If a kitchen has only one sink, locate it adjacent to or across from the cooking surface
and refrigerator.

11. Cleanup/Prep Sink Landing Area:

Include at least a 24-inch-wide landing area to one side of the sink and at least an18-inch-wide landing area on the other side.

12. Preparation/Work Area:

Include a section of continuous countertop at least 36 inches wide and 24 inches deep immediately next to a sink.

13. Dishwasher Placement:

Locate nearest edge of the primary dishwasher within 36 inches of the nearest edge of a sink. Provide at least 21 inches of standing space between the edge of the dishwasher and countertop frontage, appliances and/or cabinets placed at a right angle to the dishwasher.

14. Waste Receptacles:

Include at least two waste receptacles. Locate one near the sink(s) and a second for recycling in the kitchen or nearby.

15. Auxiliary Sink:

At least 3 inches of countertop frontage should be provided on one side of the auxiliary sink and 18 inches on the other side.

16. Refrigerator Landing Area:

Include at least 15 inches of landing area on the handle side of the refrigerator or 15 inches of landing area on either side of a side-by-side refrigerator or 15 inches of landing area no more than 48 inches across from the front of the refrigerator or 15 inches of landing area above or adjacent to any undercounter refrigeration appliance.

17. Cooking Surface Landing Area:

Include a minimum of 12 inches of landing area on one side of a cooking surface and 15 inches on the other side. In an island or peninsula, the countertop should also extended a minimum of 9 inches behind the cooking surface.

18. Cooking Surface Clearance:

Allow 24 inches of clearance between the cooking surface and a protected noncombustible surface [ex: a range hood] above it. At least 30 inches of clearance is required between the cooking surface and an unprotected/combustible surface [ex: cabinetry] above it. If a microwave hood is used, then the manufacturer’s specifications should be followed.

19. Cooking Surface Ventilation:

Provide a correctly sized, ducted ventilation system for all cooking surface appliances; the recommended minimum is 150 CFM.

20. Cooking Surface Safety:

Do not locate the cooking surface under an operable window. Window treatments above the cooking surface should not use flammable materials. A fire extinguisher should be located near the exit of the kitchen away from cooking equipment.

21. Microwave Oven Placement:

The ideal location for the bottom of the microwave is 3 inches below the principle user’s shoulder but no more than 54 inches above the floor. If the microwave is below the countertop the bottom must be at least 15 inches off the finished floor.

22. Microwave Landing Area:

Provide at least a 15-inch landing area above, below or adjacent to the handle side of a microwave.

23. Oven Landing Area:

Include at least a 15-inch landing area next to or above the oven. At least a 15-inch landing area not more than 48 inches across from the oven is acceptable if the appliance does not open into a walkway.

24. Combining Landing Areas:

If two landing areas are adjacent, determine a new minimum by taking the longer of the two landing area requirements and adding 12 inches.

25. Countertop Space:

A total of 158 inches of countertop frontage, 24 inches deep, with at least 15 inches of clearance above, is needed to accommodate all uses.

26. Countertop Edges:

Specify clipped or round corners rather than sharp edges.

27. Storage:

The total shelf/drawer frontage is: 1,400 inches for a small kitchen (150 square feet or less); 1,700 inches for a medium kitchen (151 to 350 square feet); and 2,000 inches for a large kitchen (351 square feet or more).

28. Storage at Cleanup/Prep Sink:

Of the total recommended shelf/drawer frontage, the following should be located within 72 inches of the centerline of the main cleanup/prep sink: at least 400 inches for a small kitchen; at least 480 inches for a medium kitchen; and at least 560 inches for a large kitchen.

29. Corner Cabinet Storage:

At least one corner cabinet should include a functional storage device. This does not apply if there are no corner cabinets.

30. Electrical Receptacles:

GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) protection is required on all receptacles servicing countertop surfaces.

31. Lighting:

Every work surface should be well-illuminated by appropriate task lighting.

GO GREEN Expo at Cobb Galleria

Fri, 10 Apr 2009 16:52:00 GMT

I found information this morning concerning the Upcoming 2009 Atlanta GO GREEN Expo coming to Atlanta June 26, 27, 28 at the Cobb Galleria Center.

According to Melissa with the show's organizers, the Atlanta GO GREEN Expo will showcase over 200 exhibitors dealing with Green Products for your home, Eco-Friendly remodeling options, Educational seminars and programs for a sustainable earth.

This is one show that you should put on your calendars!

Who should attend?

Everyone interested in learning about environmentally friendly goods & services for use in modern everyday living.

Why attend?

To learn how green alternatives can positively change the way you impact the environment. Each of our small changes make a big impact.

what will you see?

• Over 200 Booths / Exhibits
• Interactive Seminars / Speeches
• Film Presentations
• Eco-Fashion Show
• Green Marketplace
• Demonstrations & hands on activities

Where is the Show?

Atlanta, GA • Cobb Galleria Centre
Two Galleria Parkway
Atlanta, Georgia 30339
www.CobbGalleria.com

Tickets $10

Visit the show website at:
Go Green Expo - Atlanta

What Countertop to Choose?

Tue, 24 Mar 2009 13:07:00 GMT

Choosing the right countertop for your new (or even old) kitchen can be a difficult task, I've put together some information on many of the available materials to help you make a better decision for your needs

Slate & Soapstone

Slate is a natural stone which people tend to associate most often with flooring. However, it is an excellent choice for countertops, and in many ways better suited for that purpose than granite or marble. Slate is fine grained, relative to granite, and also much more uniform in composition. This results in a very durable and nonporous material. capable of withstanding heat and chemical abuse. It is softer that granite, so it is important to round the edges to avoid chipping. On the plus side, scratches can be easily rubbed out. It is easy to maintain simply by cleaning with a dish washing detergent. Slate does not have the glossy shine of granite and marble. Even so, the rich matte appearance of a smooth hone finish has a luster all of its own. This can even be enhanced by a light coating of mineral oil, which also acts as a sealer. Certain types of slate require an impregnating sealer. Natural slate is available in colors ranging from black, grey and purple to subtle red and green.

Soapstone is a natural stone that was traditionally used in colonial New England for fireplace hearths, sinks, countertops and wood stoves. Most people recognize it as the material used for decades as work surfaces in laboratories and science classrooms. Its dense and durable composition makes it chemically and thermally resistant to stains and burning, characteristics that also make it a popular choice for countertops. Acids and alkalis will not etch soapstone, as they will granite or marble.

It is primarily composed of talc, giving it an especially warm and soft feeling to the touch. Soapstone has a unique soft color with light flowing veins. When it is cut, it oxidizes from a light grey to a dark charcoal color. A silky-smooth honed finish and a protective coating of mineral oil, applied periodically, will enhance the color. Soapstone is much softer than granite, or even slate, and will acquire a lustrous patina over time.

Quartz Surfacing

Fashionable in Europe for more than a decade, quartz surfacing (also called engineered stone) is now rapidly gaining popularity in the kitchen and bath countertop market here. Cosentino developed their quartz surfacing product Silestone® 12 years ago in Italy. Another quartz surfacing product called Zodiaq™ was recently introduced in the United States by DuPont.

Composed primarily of natural quartz particles mixed together with binders and pigments, quartz surfaces have the weight and solid feel of natural stone. The quartz particles give quartz surfaces the glimmering radiance and brilliant clarity of granite.

Quartz surfacing is extremely dense and non-porous. Unlike natural stone, it never requires sealing, polishing or sanding to retain its shiny finish or to resist stains. It is more resistant to scratches, heat and burns than solid surfaces. Cleaning requires simply soap and water.

The resin binders used to make quartz surfaces give the surface greater flexible strength than natural stone as well. This prevents much of the chipping and cracking that can sometimes occur with granite.

Although the color palette in quartz surfacing is currently more limited than natural stone, a great advantage is that computer-controlled technology duplicates the exact color shade from one year to the next. No color variation eliminates the need for additional seams as well as adding to the inconspicuousness of the seams. Quartz surfaces can be machined and manufactured with a variety of edge treatments possible.

Tile

Tile is a versatile material that can be used for practically every kitchen surface, from floors to countertops to backsplashes. It is valued for its durability as well as its variety of colors, shapes and patterns. The design possibilities are endless.

Of the three main types of tile, ceramic, porcelain, and quarry, porcelain is the toughest, since it is baked at a higher temperature and becomes very dense. The surface of a porcelain tile is virtually waterproof, and resists scratches, burns, and stains. This especially makes porcelain tile an excellent choice for countertops.

Tiles can be glazed or unglazed, and the glazes can be matte or glossy. Some of the glossy pieces seem to be almost translucent. There are beautiful hand-painted tiles, and tiles with three-dimensional patterns and textures that can be used on vertical surfaces only. New, exciting tile products include glass tiles, and tiles with a metallic surface. These can be used to create unique walls and backsplashes.

To clean tile, use spray cleaner or water with vinegar or just wipe clean the metal or glass tiles.

When choosing grout, keep in mind that there are a myriad of colors. Selecting one similar in color to the tile will result in a more unified look. Professionals recommend using an epoxy grout to help protect the grout against staining or mildewing.

One drawback of tile that is often mentioned is that the surface is not smooth enough for cutting or rolling dough. However, the current trend for placing a variety of surfaces in the kitchens, based on their end usage, makes that not so much of an issue.

Granite & Marble

Granite is formed deep beneath the earth's crust at temperatures in the thousands of degrees. Its broad range of elegant patterns and mineral-rich colors has made it probably the most popular natural stone available today. It is the most versatile, durable and maintenance-free of all stones, making it ideal for kitchen countertops. Granite is impervious to damage from household kitchen acids such as vinegar, citrus drinks and sodas. It also handles heat extremely well. A hot pan taken from the stove and placed on a granite countertop will not damage the surface.

When granite is used for countertops, large polishing machines are used to progressively grind the stone to a mirror-like finish. After installation, the granite countertop should be sealed with an appropriate penetrating sealing product so that it cannot be darkened by oils or stained by certain liquids. Once sealed, regular cleaning with warm, soapy water is the only maintenance required.

Marble is formed from limestone, a sedimentary rock that is formed at the bottom of lakes and seas as silt and organic matter settle to the bottom. When the limestone undergoes enough heat and pressure, it metamorphoses into a crystalline structure known as marble. Marble is usually polished to a mirror-like finish, and is valued greatly for its rich palette of beautiful colors. It is perfect for use in the bathroom. However, it is a more porous stone than granite. Special care must be taken when choosing it for kitchen countertops so that it is not subjected to etching substances. Like granite, marble should be sealed with a penetrating sealer. Marble can be damaged by acidic substances, which if not wiped up promptly can dull its polished surface. For regular maintenance, use a stone-specific cleaner that is formulated to be gently to stone surfaces.

Solid Surface

Solid surface has been around for 30 years, ever since Dupont introduced the original Corian (r). Today the versatile material is being used in a huge variety of applications including work surfaces, countertops, sinks, vanities, shower trays, wall cladding and furniture.

Created from a combination of acrylic resin, natural minerals, and pigments, solid surface is a highly workable material. The grain pattern of solid surface goes all the way through, so it can be cut, carved, routed, sandblasted, inlaid and thermo-formed into a variety of attractive shapes. The advantages for use on kitchen and bath countertops are many. It is very durable, as well as impact and stain resistant. Should any accidental damage occur, the surface is renewable with a light sanding. It is non-porous, so it will not support the growth of bacteria. It is visible "seamless" when joined. It is available in a rich and ever evolving palette of many colors to blend with any interior.

Be sure to check out the associated blog post on Green Countertops!

Green Countertops

Fri, 20 Mar 2009 15:52:00 GMT

"Green" counter tops are products made from recycled materials, (such as reclaimed wood, paper, glass) or renewable materials (cork, bamboo, concrete) that have minimal impact on the environment during their production/ creation. They are manufactured in a variety of different combinations of natural and man-made materials to make composite slabs. Most 'green" counter tops will include some form of recycled waste into the composition of the final material. These renewed counter tops are an attractive and viable substitution to many conventional counter surfaces.

We've put together a list of several companies that make eco- friendly counter tops. I have put them together for you in categories of raw materials used. The Company name will link you to their product site.

Metal

Alkemi: Offers counter tops made from 60% post industrial aluminum waste and resins.

Eleek: Is a manufacturer of sinks made from recycled aluminum designed to fit standard kitchen counter tops.

Paper

Paperstone: Paneltech International Offers Paperstone(c) a revolutionary product that has a 100% sustainable life cycle. Paperstone Counter tops are manufactured form 100% recycled consumer cardboard and cashew nut oil.

Richlite: Offers paper-based counter tops.

Glass

There are a variety of reclaimed and recycled glass counter top options. and, may of the options will vary depending on the manufacturing process, the binding agent and final application of the material.

Bio Glass Bio-Glass counter tops are manufactured from 100% recycled glass.

EnviroGlas EnviroGLAS Terrazzo is made of post-consumer and post-industrial recycled glass. Each EnviroGLAS product is about 75% recycled glass and 25% binder. Which gives a greater concrete to glass ratio.

Trinity Glass Products Offers recycled glass and concrete counter tops. the recycled glass material used has been crushed into a smaller, more uniform look.

Vetrazzo All of the glass used in Vetrazzo is recycled, and it makes up about 85% of the total material. Most of the glass comes from curbside recycling programs.The larger percentage of aggregate material in the mix provides for bright, vibrant counter tops.

VitraStone Offers eco friendly sinks and counter tops made from a special blend of ceramic cement, fly ash, and recycled glass.

IceStone IceStone® durable surfaces are strong like granite, not as porous as marble and heat-resistant like stone. The chemical composition 99.5% inorganic making it a very safe material from the standpoint of toxicity and fire resistance.

Stone

Caeserstone: Offers counter tops made from 93% natural quartz.

Lithistone: Offers counter tops and sinks made from an eco-friendly ceramic cement, with aggregate materials of different grades of sand and stone, recycled material, and organic mineral pigments.

Wood

Endura Wood Products: Offers a wide variety of certified and rediscovered woods and wood products for homes and business.

Craft Art : Offers reclaimed wood counter tops.

Eco-Top: Offers counter tops made from a 50/50 blend of bamboo fiber, and recycled wood fiber salvaged from demolition sites. These materials are bound together by a water-based resin formula that is both petroleum-free and VOC-free.

Mixture of Materials

Syndcrete: Offers cement based counter tops made from post consumer bottle glass, tempered glass, wood chips, metal shavings, shells, and more.

Squak Mountain Stone: A Fibrous-cement material comprised of recycled paper, recycled glass, coal fly-ash and cement. Material is hand-cast into “slabs” as an alternative to natural or quarried stone. Resembles soapstone or limestone.

In addition to the counter top material to be used in your kitchen or bathroom project, the methods and materials used in the construction and fabrication of the counter base should be considered. There are some important factors in the construction of the counter top that are frequently overlooked. It’s important to remember to choose the right materials that will not off-gas toxic compounds into your home’s air. Something to think about when installing new stone counter tops is the adhesive that is used to attach the stone to its base. Most adhesives are epoxy-based and very high in VOCs. It’s best to use adhesive that is specified as zero-VOC and base that is specified as formaldehyde-free plywood. In addition, most resins contain petroleum based products which are not green. However, it’s important to note that there are alternative natural resins available to be used in the production of man-made counter tops.

How to Remodel for a GREEN Home - VIDEO

Sat, 21 Mar 2009 05:36:00 GMT

If you're planning some home remodeling, why not consider ideas for going green at home? Patty Kim from the Green Guide shows simple but significant green home remodeling tips to improve your personal environment and help the planet, too.

Aging in Place - A Helpful Checklist

Tue, 24 Mar 2009 13:08:00 GMT

As we age (myself included) the homes we built for our young and growing families lose purpose over time. And, while many middle age and senior homeowners choose to sell and move to a more accessibility friendly environment, it may not be for you. If you intend to remain in your current home, there are several factors you may want to consider to insure your home can serve your needs through out your golden years.

While these lists are not all-inclusive, they will get you thinking on the right track.
The checklists below contain features you may want to consider for your next renovation project. They also give you a quick reference for various aging-in-place issues.

Exterior
►Low-maintenance exterior (vinyl, brick)
►Low-maintenance shrubs and plants
►Deck, patio, or balcony surfaces are no more than ½ inch below interior floor level if made of wood

Overall Floor Plan
►Main living on a single story, including full bath
►No steps between rooms/areas on the same level
►5-foot by 5-foot clear/turn space in living area, kitchen, a bedroom, and a bathroom

Hallways
►Minimum of 36 inches wide, wider preferred
►Well lit

Entry
►Accessible path of travel to the home
►At least one no-step entry with a cover
►Sensor light at exterior no-step entry focusing on the front-door lock
►There needs to be 32 inches of clear width, which requires a 36-inch door
►Non-slip flooring in foyer
►Entry door sidelight or high/low peep hole viewer; sidelight should provide both privacy and safety
►Doorbell in accessible location
►Surface to place packages on when opening door

Thresholds
►Flush preferable
►Exterior maximum of ½ inch beveled
►Interior maximum of ¼ inch

Interior Doors
►There needs to be 32 inches of clear width, which requires a 36-inch door
►Levered door hardware

Windows
►Plenty of windows for natural light
►Lowered windows or taller windows with lower sill height
►Low maintenance exterior and interior finishes
►Easy to operate hardware

Garage or Carport
►Covered carports and boarding spaces
►Wider than average carports to accommodate lifts on vans
►Door heights may need to be nine feet to accommodate some raised roof vans
►Five-foot minimum access aisle between accessible van and car in garage
►If code requires floor to be several inches below entrance to house for fume protection, can slope entire floor from front to back to
eliminate need for ramp or step
►Ramp to doorway if needed
►Handrail if steps

Faucets
►Lever handles or pedal-controlled
►Thermostatic or anti-scald controls
►Pressure balanced faucets

Kitchen and Laundry
Counters
►Wall support and provision for adjustable and/or varied height counters and removable base cabinets
►Upper wall cabinetry three inches lower than conventional height
►Accented stripes on edge of countertops to provide visual orientation to the workspace
►Counter space for dish landing adjacent to or opposite all appliances
►Pull-down shelving
►Glass-front cabinet doors

Appliances
►Easy to read controls
►Washing machine and dryer raised 12 to 15 inches above floor
►Front loading laundry machines
►Microwave oven at counter height or in wall
►Side-by-side refrigerator/freezer
►Side-swing or wall oven
►Raised dishwasher with pushbutton controls
►Electric cook top with level burners for safety in transferring between the burners, front controls and downdraft feature to pull heat
away from user; light to indicate when surface is hot

Miscellaneous
►30-inch by 48-inch clear space at appliances or 60-inch diameter clear space for turns
►Multi-level work areas to accommodate cooks of different heights
►Open under-counter seated work areas
►Placement of task lighting in appropriate work areas
►Loop handles for easy grip and pull
►Pull-out spray faucet; levered handles
►In multi-story homes, laundry chute or laundry facilities in master bedroom

Bathroom
►Wall support and provision for adjustable and/or varied height counters and removable base cabinets
►Contrasting color edge border at countertops
►At least one wheelchair maneuverable bath on main level with 60-inch turning radius or acceptable T-turn space and 36-inch by
36-inch or 30-inch by 48-inch clear space
►Bracing in walls around tub, shower, shower seat, and toilet for installation of grab bars to support 250 - 300 pounds
►If stand-up shower is used in main bath, it is curbless and minimum of 36 inches wide
►Bathtub - lower for easier access
►Fold down seat in the shower
►Adjustable/ handheld showerheads, 6-foot hose
►Tub/Shower controls offset from center
►Shower stall with built-in antibacterial protection
►Light in shower stall
►Toilet 2 ½ inches higher than standard toilet (17 to 19 inches) or height-adjustable
►Design of the toilet paper holder allows rolls to be changed with one hand
►Wall-hung sink with knee space and panel to protect user from pipes
►Slip-resistant flooring in bathroom and shower

Stairways, Lifts, and Elevators
►Adequate hand rails on both sides of stairway, 1 ¼-inch diameter
►Increased visibility of stairs through contrast strip on top and bottom stairs, color contrast between treads and risers on stairs and
use of lighting
►Multi-story homes may provide either pre-framed shaft (ie. stacked closets) for future elevator, or stairway width must be minimum
of 4 feet to allow space for lift
►Residential elevator or lift

Ramps
►Slope no greater than one inch rise for each 12 inches in length, adequate handrails
►Five-foot landing provided at entrance
►Two-inch curbs for safety

Storage
►Adjustable closet rods and shelves
►Lighting in closets
►Easy open doors that do not obstruct access

Electrical, Lighting, Safety, and Security
►Light switches by each entrance to halls and rooms
►Light receptacles with at least two bulbs in vital places (exits, bathroom)
►Light switches, thermostats, and other environmental controls placed in accessible locations no higher than 48 inches from floor
►Electrical outlets 15 inches on center from floor; may need to be closer than 12 feet apart
►Clear access space of 30 inches by 48 inches in front of switches and controls
►Rocker or touch light switches
►Audible and visual strobe light system to indicate when the doorbell, telephone or smoke or CO2 detectors have been activated
►High-tech security/intercom system that can be monitored, with the heating, air conditioning, and lighting, from any TV in the
house
►Easy-to-see and read thermostats
►Pre-programmed thermostats
►Flashing porch light or 911 switch
►Direct wired to police, fire, and EMS (as option)
►Home wired for security
►Home wired for computers

Flooring
►Smooth, non-glare, slip-resistant surfaces, interior and exterior
►If carpeted, use low (less than ½ inch high pile) density, with firm pad
►Color / texture contrast to indicate change in surface levels

Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning
►HVAC should be designed so filters are easily accessible
►Energy-efficient units
►Windows that can be opened for cross ventilation, fresh air

Energy-Efficient Features
►In-line framing with two by six studs spaced 24-inch on center
►Air-barrier installation and sealing of duct work with mastic
►Reduced-size air conditioning units with gas furnaces
►Mechanical fresh air ventilation, installation of air returns in all bedrooms and use of carbon monoxide detectors
►Installation of energy efficient windows with Low-E glass

Reduced Maintenance/Convenience Features
►Easy to clean surfaces
►Central vacuum
►Built-in pet feeding system
►Built-in recycling system
►Video announcements for entry doors
►Intercom system

Other Ideas
►Separate apartment for rental income or future caregiver
►Flex Suites that can used as a nursery or playroom when the children are young and as a home office later; if combined with a full bath, room could also be used for an aging parent/aging in place

Recirculating Pumps - The Whole - House Hot Water Solution

Sat, 21 Mar 2009 05:38:00 GMT

Nearly everyone is familiar with the ritual of turning on their shower valve and letting the cold water run out before getting in the shower, or for that matter doing the same thing at the sink before washing his hands. This is not only an annoying waste of time, but a tremendous waste of water as well.

While fresh water becomes scarcer in the face of ever-increasing public demands for it, more water continues to be wasted. The typical U.S. home wastes between 12,000 to 38,000 gallons of water each year waiting for hot water.

This water places an unnecessary burden on municipal wastewater treatment systems and other infrastructures. This wasted water poured down the drain was heated and now when the water is shut off the hot water remaining in the pipes will just cool down again. Throwing HOT paid-for water down the drain not only aggravates shortages but also adds needless demands on our water producers and our Gas and Electric service providers.

In addition, all water heaters experience stand-by losses and operating stress; they cycle on and off several times during the day.

In typical plumbing, water is pumped from the water heater through the pipes to the faucet/tap. Once the faucet is shut off, the water remaining in the pipes cools - hence the familiar wait for hot water the next time the tap is opened.

A recirculation pump reduces undo stress on the tank caused by the thermo shock of new cold water entering the system, by tempering this new water with the returning warm water.

Recirculation decreases the amount of cold water that enters the system, and that results in much less condensation and less thermal stress on the tank. Yet the actual circulator requires a minimal horsepower motor in the range of 1/12 or 1/16 hp, or just enough to keep the water moving.

A recirculating pump brings instant hot water to any room in the house There are two types of recirculating systems, closed systems and open ones.

A closed system is like that found in a hot water heating system, where radiant heat from the water is used to heat the home. The system is always full and water is neither added nor removed. As a result, the quality of this water deteriorates to the point where it is not safe for drinking.

An open system, on the other hand, allows both the inflow and outflow of water during the recirculating process.

This is the type of system we're discussing in this article. Unlike closed systems, where the water is subject to the infiltration of impurities, open systems must maintain water integrity.

The solution to this problem is the recirculating pump, an item that's becoming more and more popular in new homes. Besides adding value to the home, it provides the comfort and convenience of instant hot water at every faucet and valve, without the prohibitive cost of installing instant water heaters in each location.

All the faucets, showers and water appliances are linked (in series) by the piping in a continuous line. At the last faucet or water fixture (farthest from the hot water heater), a return pipe is installed that goes back to the water heater. This is called the "hot" pipe loop. Water in these pipes is always hot

How the loop is made, depends on the type of installation:

New Home Construction

This system requires a dedicated return-line to be installed from the end of the hot water supply line back to the water heater.

A circulator pump is used to circulate water through the main hot water line and the return-line back to the water heater to keep hot water in the main line. A timer, aquastat, or both may be used to control the operation of the pump. The Grundfos UP 10-16's, as well as the UP Bronze and Stainless model circulators are common in this application.

Retrofit Solution

The Grundfos Comfort System is a pump and valve combination that delivers you hot water in an instant to any faucet or bath in your home.

This combination works together to keep the water in your hot water line at temperature to provide "no-wait" hot water throughout your home. The timer on the pump makes it more efficient during downtime, like nights or mid-day. It's quiet, maintenance-free, and keeps your water at a comfortable temperature.

Traditional hot water circulating systems use a hot water circulating pump to pump hot water from the water heater, through the hot water piping, and on back to the water heater through an additional length of pipe that runs from the furthest fixture back to the water heater.

This type of hot water circulating system provides nearly instant hot water at the fixtures, but wastes a tremendous amount of energy through both the energy required to operate the hot water pump and the heat energy lost from the piping.

Several methods have been employed to reduce the energy waste associated with hot water pump circulating systems.

Timers are sometimes placed on the circulating pump so the system shuts the hot water pump off during hours that one one normally uses hot water such as from midnight to 6:00 a. m.

Sometimes the circulating pump is controlled by a temperature sensing circuit that shuts the hot water pump off once the water temperature reaches a pre-set temperature such as !40 degrees and then starts the pump back up when the water temperature in the pipe drops below a second set point such as 110 degrees. This type of system does little to reduce the energy losses because the lower set point is still high enough to cause continual large heat losses from the system, and the pump does not contribute nearly as much to the loss as the heat loss itself.

Each year, thousands of gallons of wasted water go down the drain in American homes, and with them, thousands of dollars for homeowners, utility companies, and taxpayers. A significant amount of this waste occurs when homeowners wait for their water to reach a comfortable temperature before they shower or wash their hands.

Why do homeowners have to wait for hot water? In a traditional hot water system, water runs from the water heater to each faucet in the home but ends at the farthest faucet, leaving some water in the pipes to cool. When a homeowner turns on a faucet, the cooled water sitting in the pipes circulates to the faucet first, so the homeowner has to wait for hot water.

There's a simple and inexpensive way to eliminate the wait for hot water that will delight your customers and help conserve water. By installing circulation systems in your new homes, you can give your customers instant hot water at the faucet.

A hot water circulation pump sends cool water in the pipes back to the water heater through a return line. A pump circulates this water through the water heater as needed to keep it hot. This continuous loop of water through the water heater ensures that hot water is always available.

A hot water circulation system includes these features:

* A pump circulates water through the water heater.

* A thermostat controls the temperature in the return line by automatically switching the pump on or off to keep the temperature between 95 and 125 degrees Fahrenheit.

* A timer activates the thermostat to check the temperature at built-in intervals.

* An optional programmable timer allows homeowners to regulate how often the timer and thermostat turn on. Homeowners can activate the pump during periods of high water usage, such as early in the morning when they're getting ready for their workday.

It would be a hassle to install a hot water circulation system if you had to purchase and fit every piece of the system separately; this is what builders used to do, but not anymore. Unlike older recirculation systems, modern systems are all-in-one. Grundfos, a pump manufacturer, supplies a system that includes everything you need in one package, making installation fast and simple.

When you install a hot water circulation pump, you help ensure happier homeowners who will enjoy the convenience of instant hot water and experience annual savings on their water and energy bills. You'll also help conserve water, one of our most important natural resources.

To learn more about hot water circulation pumps, visit:

www.grundfos.com

Global Trends Influence Design

Sat, 21 Mar 2009 05:38:00 GMT

If one were to describe in a single word the global trend in kitchen and bath design today, it would be simplicity. And it's no wonder the idea is catching on quickly! Our lives are so fast paced and complex that a home environment free from extra clutter can have a calming effect on the soul. It's roots are Asian, based on the Zen principle of removing all non-essential elements from a space until harmony, balance and simplicity is achieved. These theories are being put into practice by designers all over the world, including those in Italy, Germany, England, and finally North America as well.

This global philosophy revolves around six themes: transparency, texture, softened colors, suspension, lineal design, and minimalism. Each of these elements contributes to the overall look and serves a well-defined purpose, nothing is frivolous.

Transparency can be found in openness of cabinets, which are often glass fronted or open shelved. These designs celebrate light as an interactive material, and they are very sculptural, playing creatively with proportions. The heavy, boxy look has been replaced by a look that is sheer and beautiful.

Texture is everywhere: in glossy finishes, dimpled fronts, and sanded obscure glass. Wood, glass, stainless steel, aluminum, granite and even plastic are harmoniously combined. An occasional leather drawer pull adds unique character.

The trend is for whites to be softened and mellow. Parchment is the color choice for cabinets, and white marble is used on countertops. Other colors are less significant, although saturated red, yellow and blue are used as accents. Wenge wood, a dark, almost black wood from Africa, lends depth. Cabinets are often suspended off the floor. They can be free standing and show an attractive leg, or if attached they can "float", having no legs at all. Countertops are cantilevered and shelves are without brackets, all to express the feeling of openness and light.

Lineal design is achieved through treating spaces as horizontal rather than vertical. There are no wall cabinets hung from the ceiling, and few pictures are placed on the wall. Wood grains run horizontally across cabinet fronts. Contrasting trim above cabinets keeps the emphasis low, horizontal and intimate, as does a 24" backsplash in the kitchen.

Minimalism was the style 40-50 years ago, and some of those same ideas and products are being revived with the new "simplicity." Only, the look is more relaxed and inviting in today’s global kitchen and bath. Advances in technology make it possible for everything to be more user friendly.

Plastics and superior coatings for wood cabinets make them waterproof and stain resistant. Advanced hardware systems have enabled manufacturers to produce sliding countertops and easily moveable doors. Countertops are becoming thicker, from the usual 3/8" thickness up to 4" thick, depending on the material used.

The new global kitchen and bath design trends are certainly on the cutting edge of creativity. And as American homeowners have become more aware of what is going on in European and other global markets, there has been a strong movement in the direction of contemporary styling. Without a doubt, a well-organized and subtly beautiful room makes a peaceful place to escape to at the end of a hectic day.

Recapturing the Past: An Arts & Crafts Kitchen

Sat, 21 Mar 2009 05:38:00 GMT

There were numerous steps I took in coming up with the final design considerations for my remodeled kitchen and dining room. Over a period of a couple years, I watched several shows, such as This Old House and Showtime on PBS, to see various features of homes that I liked. I also looked at numerous remodeling magazines to find ideas that I was interested in. I am a Data Analyst with a background in accounting, so naturally I found that the clean, simple, geometric lines of the Arts & Crafts style kept drawing my eye.

I purchased four books that had not only pictures of 1900-1930 style homes, but also described the philosophy and thought behind the design from this period. As I looked through the books, I realized that many of the furnishings I already had in my home would have fit in homes from this period. There was an oak kitchen table, built in the late 1920's, which had been handed down to me from my grandmother. I also had several pieces of pottery from the family which had been produced in this time frame. I discovered in reading about some of the philosophy from the Arts & Crafts period that the designers were attempting to get away from the industrial excesses of the time. When people came home from work, they wanted to enjoy the simpler things in life. The personally crafted quality of the kitchen reminds me of this ideal, with the oak wainscoting, hand thrown backsplash tiles, and ceramic tile floor with the look of limestone tiles. I tried to keep the kitchen and dining area as true to the early 1900's as possible. The lights over the dining table and kitchen island are reproductions of period pieces. The wallpaper was crafted at Bradbury and Bradbury from originals from the period.

Even small details, like acorn cabinet knobs, were included. The dining chairs are reproductions of Stickley 1903 originals that are very similar to the original chairs that were in my family. The reproduction oriental rugs are much the same thing as would have been in the dining room at the time. The dining area bay window overlooking the landscaped backyard is very typical of the way designers from those times would have tried to bring the outside indoors. The one real compromise I did make was to use a lighter stain for all the oak wainscoting and trim than a true Arts & Crafts period craftsman would have used. I wanted a more open and brighter look. The way I feel today as I returned from work is as if I have entered a different age...and age of a slower and more relaxed pace of life. My house has become a place I can truly call "home".

Smart Kitchen Design for the New Senior

Sat, 21 Mar 2009 05:39:00 GMT

A new wave of building is going on in our country these days, and the building and remodeling industry is sitting up and taking notice. It's the Baby Boomers again, the generation that has had such an impact on our society throughout every stage of their lives.

Now they have newly become seniors, empty nesters finally with money to spend on their own dreams and desires for their homes. And what they want is luxury, casual elegance, and individuality. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the kitchen, where these active and educated seniors are opting for high performance appliances, work islands and dual sinks.

While planning their dream kitchens, however, it also makes sense to incorporate concepts into the design that accommodate the predictable changes that occur with age. As people advance in age, their senses decline and their flexibility, balance, stamina and reflexes diminish.

Kitchen and bath designer, Mary Jo Peterson, CKD, CBD, feels that "smart" design should take this all into account. She specializes in Universal Design, which is design that is flexible enough to meet the needs of each member of a household throughout their lifetime. She is quick to point out, however, that Universal Design can also achieve classy, good looks.

The following is practical advice Peterson offers for creating an accessible kitchen:

- Flush entry at the door instead of a raised threshold.
- Clear floor space for maneuvering.
- Slip-resistant flooring with some give--to prevent serious harm in case of a fall.
- Generous amounts of task and ambient lighting.
- Retractable doors to conceal an open knee space for sitting while working.
- Raised dishwasher cabinet for easy loading and unloading.
- Rollout trays and/or tambour doors for easily accessible storage in base cabinets.
- Lower wall ovens and microwaves for easier transfer of items.
- Lower counters and work areas that can be used while seated.
- Rolling storage that moves to the point of use as desired

Owning a state-of-the-art, luxury kitchen is often the fulfillment of a lifelong dream for Baby Boomers. Using the principles of Universal Design in the planning of that kitchen will help ensure they can continue to enjoy it for years to come.